Playing Tourist in Tbilisi

For some of you that want to come visit Georgia before I leave, here are more pictures of Tbilisi.

 

Modern bars in Tbilisi

just across from the modern bars!

The largest cathedral in Tbilisi,
with one of the oldest ones in the foreground.

Gondola goes to the top of
the old fortress on the hill

The Turkish baths, where one gets naked
 with some of your favorite friends.

Lack of architectural controls gives rise to creative building,
plus a loss of historical congruity.

view from a tourist restaurant 

 

Tourist prices: salad, deep fried kingali with soy sauce, and 2 glasses of wine
$4.80  :-)

In the middle of Old Town tourist area

Underground walkways beneath the busy roads

The same flower ladies have been here for 2 years. They wouldn't let me
take their picture until I said I wanted to buy a bouquet. Now
they smile each time I walk by.  

Finally, a efficient, well utilized Metro  

Death in Georgia

A while ago we had a terrible tragedy in our community.  Koda is a village and the IDP settlement, that is now well integrated.  The village has approximately 3000 residents, the IDP settlement hosts about 2000 now in our old military barrack buildings. Everyone gets along well now or so it seems.  I would give credit to the mayor, a hard working and committed man, trying to help everyone out, the one integrated school, and hopefully our Community Education Center, that is missioned to support both the IDPs and the village residents.

Living in the settlement, I feel like a cross between the Bronx in the 50s and a college quad. Everything goes on right outside our balconies. Garbage men pick up, vans sell produce, kids play soccer  each day, men play backgammon on a series of picnic tables, little cinderblock shops open and close.

So when a tragedy strikes, everyone is affected.  A male driver, with 3 young women in a car, was in an accident with another car, on a hilly curvy village road not far from us.  Alcohol was involved.  The 3 women were killed.  Two were from our village, and a 22 year old from our settlement.  It was so difficult that it is still hard to write about it. But I think that we learn about people in different cultures by their traditions, especially at these significant times in their lives.

For us it was three difficult days.  For day one, everyone was just in shock.  A lovely young, vibrant, happy young woman was dead.  It is still like the 1960s in the US, when few people wore seatbelts, or just 'pretended' to wear them. And drunk driving is such a big issue here in Georgia, although they do try to address it, and we have had many 'trainings' about it at our Center, for the youth.  But for adults...

Day two we saw many people mourning.  Of the two deceased women from the village, one was a mother of 2 and was pregnant with her third. Groups of 15+ women were seen walking from one home to another, to pay their respects.  Day three let's just say many, many of the men took to their bottles.  It was a tough time.

The day of the funeral I joined my landlady and good friend, and other neighbors.  We went to her close neighbor's apartment, where they hold the wake in the main room.  (As I have previously described, these converted army barracks have 1 or 2 rooms, in addition to the kitchen and indoor bathroom, depending on the size of the family)  Girls almost always live with their families until they get married.  Boys NEVER leave. For the most part, the first born son lives with his family and his wife joins him, even in these small apartments, and they inherit the house/apartment eventually. Of course things are a bit different in Tbilisi.

Sorry I digress,  so we went to their apartment, where about 20 women are all sitting around the casket. The mother of this young woman was standing, and calling out to her daughter. She told her daughter that 'the American is here for you',  almost a call to wake up.  I know this is normal, as it happened to me before, but now I read about it and understood it. The visitors process around the casket, give condolences to the bereaved, and then are ushered out.  The casket was open, even though it was a bad car wreck.

One note, only the family brings food.  When I asked if I could bring something, they said that it wasn't done that way.  Some people brought flowers, and they some were strewn on the ground as we processed to the church.  (What a sad comparison, we only throw flowers when someone gets married in the US).  There was however an official looking table set up, with two men manning it. Each mourner came and made a financial donation.  A entry was made into the book to document each donation. This is to pay for the burial, and also to pay for the supra, that they have in one month, I believe. They have an even bigger supra after one year has passed.

This is just the beginning of the procession to the church.

Eventually, everyone started leaving the apartment, and they brought out the casket.  At least 300 people walked to the church behind the open casket, which was held high and slanted so anyone passing could see the deceased. The church was about a kilometer away. Traffic stopped on the main road. There were no police stopping traffic.  Everyone just pulled off out of respect. (I have only seen his in the deep south, in the US) At the small church they had a  service for several hours, with hymns and readings.  Everyone stands at the georgian Orthodox church.  The mother finally was given a chair. The ones that couldn't fit in the church stood outside in the church gardens. Eventually the regional Patriarch came and said prayers around the casket in the church.  As has become custom, the older ladies pushed me forward to be blessed by the Patriach, in a show of acceptance I believe. I keep telling you all how good these people are to me.

Finally, about 15 of the the regional government employees processed in to the church grounds, carrying a large floral arrangement. The officials all entered the church, probably were blessed too, and then left.  After this most of the mourners walked to the graveyard, about another 2 miles away.

It was an exhausting and mournful day.

Georgian New Year, then Christmas

Orthodox Holidays.   I like the different traditions of New Year in Georgia.  First,  we cook all day New Year's Eve so we have food for the next week and for all the guests that come to visit.  Decorations are strung, and small Christmas trees are decorated.

Secondly, at midnight we don't have to jockey for position for a New Year kiss (issue of singles as well as married people, as I have experienced)  We all run outside and everyone (YES, everyone) has real fireworks that they shoot off in the yard.  So the entire town, village, or city, lights up with fireworks.  for a half hour.  Next we all come inside and toast to the new year, then have fruit and sweets, and watch the obligatory celebrations from around the world on TV. One traditional food is cosinoki - this is just honey and crushed nuts, heated on the stove and then cooled, like on a cookie sheet. It is good and not too unhealthy.  We share secret santa gifts - nothing big and thank heaven, nothing so commercial as in the US.  My host sister received a little bunny!   Around 2am, we may have a meal, since everyone is hungry by then.  

Finally, there is lovely tradition that the first person who comes to visit in the new year portends to a new year of good karma.  It was true this year when a 7 year old arrived (by taxi, no less) to be the first visitor, about 1:30am.  He was treated as a special guest, and when his mom called to arrange for him to come home, he begged to spend the night.  It was a fun time, relaxing and jovial, without all the stress of many holidays.

New Years day arrived quietly, We all slept in. It was cold with a dusting of snow, but still warm enough to not fear going out to the bathroom in the morning.  We pulled out a nice meal around 2pm, and this evening we had my burritos I made the other night.

As we viewed pictures from past trips and talked about future plans, we watched a popular georgian comedy movie, called Mrs.Zdidza.  It was a georgian remake of Mrs. Doubtfire! EXACTLY!  It was amazing to know exactly what was happening throughout the story, and how easily they took all the plot and copied it.  Except the star didn't save Pierce Brosnan with a shrimp stuck in his throat, but got into a fight with someone hitting on his ex-wife.  Now, I'm watching the georgian remake of Home Alone.  Honest!  Great country of copyrights,  or maybe they did pay royalties?  Who knows. HA HA.

I was back in Koda for Georgian Christmas, January 7th.  It is a quiet affair.  Some say that most of the traditions went away during the Soviet rule. Some attend mass - it goes from 11pm Christmas Eve until about 3 am Christmas Day.  Now that is dedication!   There are no presents; that is handled on New Years. But we do get the day off.

There is also talk of the "old new year" celebrated in mid January.  So, in other words, not much gets done here in January.  It is hard to have exciting work related 'kick-offs' that I like - full of planning and goals.  It is a bit like our work day - slow to start and at 4:30 everyone decide to have meetings and get the work done.  Different strokes...

So from my georgian family to you and yours,  Happy New year. Let's have a great 2016!

You know you are back in Georgia when...

I just returned from France for Christmas back to Georgia . My first reminder I was back was in the airport luggage claim.  So many women in the their thirties and forties wearing all black.  I hate that - then looked down at my black jeans, black jacket and gloves, black turtleneck and black socks.  I quickly pulled out my bright green scarf and proudly displayed my tan cowboy boots, just to be a rebel. 

2. They still give out bottles of famous Georgian saperavi wine at passport control  :-)

3. You drive down the highway and see:

 - 20 inch fish from the local river strung across the open trunk of someone's car pulled over on the side of the highway

 - more sales tables - obviously recycled bottles - some have motor oil in them,  some sell wine in them

 - more Turkish fruit stands - oranges, pineapples (especially at holiday time) pomegranates, and persimmons, and the ever present wide selection of famous Georgian apples 

 -  a rack of ribs hanging from a small white cabinet next to the road with the words painted on a sign on the top ხორცი ( hortsi = meat). Refrigeration? 

4. You hop on the local marshutka and everyone says "hi kimi", and how was my son in საფრანგეთი (saprangeti = France). They all know I was away and invite me to their homes after I rest up.  That night in the Istanbul airport must have taken its toll.

5. Cows, sheep, and a recent addition of goats, now share the roads.

6. Gulf gas station signs all read გშლფი - or gulpi  -  since (remember) they have no F letter and all nouns have to end in a vowel.

7. SAFETY - All of France had a lot of rifle toting police patrolling the streets, as would be expected this year. And we have a lot of police in Tbilisi, but I don't even think most carry guns.  They are helpful and kind. Tbilisi is one of the 5 safest Capitols in the world, according to some article I read and can't remember where.  I believe it and missed it while away.

8. BAGS - went to the local grocery store in Tbilisi and walked out with 6 plastic bags, for 7 items.  In France you take your bags with you, or you walk out with everything in your hand.  (like Boulder, Colorado)

8. TRADEMARKS - Still no respect.  Bad picture, but this says Mc shawarma  - the turkish kabob.  Honest.  

Good to be 'home.'   Villages are full of fire works and crackers now.  I will work a few more days this year, help set up a more professional profit statement in excel for our social enterprise which successfully shared an almost living wage to 8-10 women in the settlement ( final numbers pending), then off to my training host family in Khashuri for the new year. New year is like Christmas in the US.  It is THE PARTY.  Can't wait.  

Christmas in Paris!

Cathedral in Auxerre - by moonlight.  Nice job, Matt!

Christmas in France with my son was a great plan. What a nice break from a busy December at the Koda Community Education Center. We wrote a big proposal for a cross border cultural initiative with Azerbaijan. It was a great experience.  And our social enterprise - Art Koda - had many successful Christmas shows.  But more about that later. Georgia doesn't celebrate much in December, except for the ex-pats.  Their big celebration is New Years, then Orthodox Christmas on January 7th, so it was a great time to escape to France to visit Matt.

Matt finished up for his semester abroad at IAU in the Aix en Provence business program so I flew into Marseille to meet him. We spent 2 nights at his host mom's home in Aix, driving over to Marseille to eat the best seafood at a highly recommended restaurant, Toin.  Aix is a lovely, cozy, college like town and a good landing for a semester abroad.  Matt studied French, media in conflict with a famous journalist, International Business, and photography.  Then we drove to Paris, by way of St. Etienne, Lyon, Auxerre, and Versailles.  Here are just some of the highlights.

my first non-Georgian restaurant...in a LONG time

Just looks like a nice college town, eh?

   

  Our Lady of the Guard Basilica

Marseille old port from basilica, highest point in Marseille

Avignon

The short cut to Roman theatre of Orange - built in early 1st C. AD

Auxerre old town - beautiful at Christmastime, and a nice resting spot

Had a wonderful time with our Servas friends near Lyon.  And a REAL french meal.  The most relaxing and interesting time of our entire trip. Great food, new and different drinks, local cheese, interesting conversation,wonderful hosts.  What more can I say?

St. Etienne, So great to stay in a real french home, and meet such wonderul, helpful folks.  THANKS!

Off the highway - wind power and nuclear power plants too.

Lyon - rainy, but the shops were still wonderful

 On to Versailles.  Matt was anxious to spend enough time there, and I wanted to see what the town was like as more than a day trip from Paris.  Our Airbnb was fabulous, with a lovely host.  I love seeing what the locals prioritize - like fresh squeezed orange juice, good jams, coffee in your room... It was a fun, and easy time.  Gardens, even in the winter, were beautiful.

                                   

 Turned in the car for a fast train and we were on to our airbnb in Montmartre.

The D'orsay had a special exhibit of female photographers. This is one of my favorite photographs.  I saw it in Elton John's collection in Atlanta once.  Funny juxtaposition of Impressionists and American Depression photographs.  Still amazingly poignant.

I forgot how much I liked this lesser known Monet, with its heavy brushstrokes

Just time to see the Rodin garden.  Good excuse to return.

 

Mass on Christmas at Notre Dame, of course.  Only difference was the policeman that processed in behind the Arch- Bishop.

Magnificent as always

Matt had to tell me about the bridge of locks. 

Left bank was a ghost town on Christmas day, but Luxembourg gardens, and palace,  the first Jeu de Paume if you will,  was still bustling.  

 

On business trips with IBM I often hung out here in the evenings, on the square just west of Sacre Coeur.  Loved it then, love it now. 

I was so pleased Matt could join me for Christmas and his first trip to Paris.  We missed Amanda, but glad to hear she had a fabulous Christmas skiing.  Then, exciting trip to our homes. Matt to tornadoes in Dallas which delayed his return to Colorado.  I flew through Istanbul for the night, then back to Koda.    Good to be back in Georgia... for another six months.
Here are a few random parting shots from the airports.

I have definitely become integrated. Now this makes perfect sense to me.  Squatting is better for your bodily functions, exercises the thighs, and more sanitary.  Of course!

One for men too. It's to wash hands, face, nose, ears and feet, before you pray