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Peace Corps Georgia Assignment: a Brief Summary 2014-2016

As I close out my Georgia Peace Corps Service 2014-2016 I would like to answer a few questions, and also summarize my service. It seems...

Showing posts with label Georgian customs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Georgian customs. Show all posts

Sunday, January 17, 2016

Death in Georgia

A while ago we had a terrible tragedy in our community.  Koda is a village and the IDP settlement, that is now well integrated.  The village has approximately 3000 residents, the IDP settlement hosts about 2000 now in our old military barrack buildings. Everyone gets along well now or so it seems.  I would give credit to the mayor, a hard working and committed man, trying to help everyone out, the one integrated school, and hopefully our Community Education Center, that is missioned to support both the IDPs and the village residents.

Living in the settlement, I feel like a cross between the Bronx in the 50s and a college quad. Everything goes on right outside our balconies. Garbage men pick up, vans sell produce, kids play soccer  each day, men play backgammon on a series of picnic tables, little cinderblock shops open and close.

So when a tragedy strikes, everyone is affected.  A male driver, with 3 young women in a car, was in an accident with another car, on a hilly curvy village road not far from us.  Alcohol was involved.  The 3 women were killed.  Two were from our village, and a 22 year old from our settlement.  It was so difficult that it is still hard to write about it. But I think that we learn about people in different cultures by their traditions, especially at these significant times in their lives.

For us it was three difficult days.  For day one, everyone was just in shock.  A lovely young, vibrant, happy young woman was dead.  It is still like the 1960s in the US, when few people wore seatbelts, or just 'pretended' to wear them. And drunk driving is such a big issue here in Georgia, although they do try to address it, and we have had many 'trainings' about it at our Center, for the youth.  But for adults...

Day two we saw many people mourning.  Of the two deceased women from the village, one was a mother of 2 and was pregnant with her third. Groups of 15+ women were seen walking from one home to another, to pay their respects.  Day three let's just say many, many of the men took to their bottles.  It was a tough time.

The day of the funeral I joined my landlady and good friend, and other neighbors.  We went to her close neighbor's apartment, where they hold the wake in the main room.  (As I have previously described, these converted army barracks have 1 or 2 rooms, in addition to the kitchen and indoor bathroom, depending on the size of the family)  Girls almost always live with their families until they get married.  Boys NEVER leave. For the most part, the first born son lives with his family and his wife joins him, even in these small apartments, and they inherit the house/apartment eventually. Of course things are a bit different in Tbilisi.

Sorry I digress,  so we went to their apartment, where about 20 women are all sitting around the casket. The mother of this young woman was standing, and calling out to her daughter. She told her daughter that 'the American is here for you',  almost a call to wake up.  I know this is normal, as it happened to me before, but now I read about it and understood it. The visitors process around the casket, give condolences to the bereaved, and then are ushered out.  The casket was open, even though it was a bad car wreck.

One note, only the family brings food.  When I asked if I could bring something, they said that it wasn't done that way.  Some people brought flowers, and they some were strewn on the ground as we processed to the church.  (What a sad comparison, we only throw flowers when someone gets married in the US).  There was however an official looking table set up, with two men manning it. Each mourner came and made a financial donation.  A entry was made into the book to document each donation. This is to pay for the burial, and also to pay for the supra, that they have in one month, I believe. They have an even bigger supra after one year has passed.
This is just the beginning of the procession to the church.

Eventually, everyone started leaving the apartment, and they brought out the casket.  At least 300 people walked to the church behind the open casket, which was held high and slanted so anyone passing could see the deceased. The church was about a kilometer away. Traffic stopped on the main road. There were no police stopping traffic.  Everyone just pulled off out of respect. (I have only seen his in the deep south, in the US) At the small church they had a  service for several hours, with hymns and readings.  Everyone stands at the georgian Orthodox church.  The mother finally was given a chair. The ones that couldn't fit in the church stood outside in the church gardens. Eventually the regional Patriarch came and said prayers around the casket in the church.  As has become custom, the older ladies pushed me forward to be blessed by the Patriach, in a show of acceptance I believe. I keep telling you all how good these people are to me.

Finally, about 15 of the the regional government employees processed in to the church grounds, carrying a large floral arrangement. The officials all entered the church, probably were blessed too, and then left.  After this most of the mourners walked to the graveyard, about another 2 miles away.

It was an exhausting and mournful day.

Friday, July 17, 2015

It's a Small World: Georgians in Greece too.

BBC recently reported on the effect that the Greek debt crisis will have on Georgia. This ripple effect is exacerbated by the EU structure today, but Georgians have been moving to Greece to find employment, both seasonal and long term, ever since the Soviet collapse.  I know of  many friends and acquaintances here in Georgia who have a parent working in Greece for many years, and sending money home when they can. They say about 200,000 Georgians live in Greece now, which is just under 5% of its population. Greece is also the most popular destination after Russian for Georgian migrant laborers.  But since Greece is in the news, let me tell you my personal experience...

A Little R&R in Greece
I took a little R&R to Greece, a while ago, responding to cheap tickets before it gets too late in my Peace Corps service. I had been in Georgia for almost a year at this time. It seemed like a lifetime and a minute at the same time.

I downloaded Rick Steves guide to Greece, from my favorite on line Vail library free Marmot service.  I love that service and most libraries in the US offer something like this. We had been busy at the Koda Community Education Center, trying to launch our new on-line catalog for our women's traditional handicraft items. Check it out at Art-Koda.com. If you want to order something, just "check out " and we will respond with the shipping costs and payment options. It's not automatic here, but still effective.  

I felt I needed a little break   My great world-traveled friend, Barbara, recommended Athens as a nice place before the tourist season begins.  And I stayed with new friends in Galaxidi for two nights to be near the water, and toured Delphi to learn my future.




I'm busy enjoying my R&R!
                                                        
Splurging on breakfast buffet
 But first, I splurged with one night at an upper scale hotel, the Divani Caravel, with a pool and a bathtub!  I was not sure of which I was more excited about or if I would ever leave my room. And after all those years complaining about living  in those Marriotts on IBM business trips.   Eventually I did pull myself away and ventured out to see Athens and I moved to Hotel Adonis, a lovely little family inn near Plaka, the cool old town... 



It's a Small World After All
The first evening I decided to walk down to the main center in old town, Athens. Of course I took a wrong turn and got lost, as darkness was falling.  There were very few people around and I was getting a little nervous. Finally I saw a young woman, approached her and asked her if I was going in the right direction, in English.  She motioned "sorry, no English," and I motioned that I  didn't speak Greek, but a little charades got me pointed in the right direction for town Central. 
I automatically said " Madloba"  (Georgian for Thanks) and started to move away. 
She paused and then ran up to me.
"Raton laparokob cartuli? ( Why are you speaking Georgian?)
I responded, " Ratom itsi cartuli?  (Why do you know Georgian?)
To which she answered, "ME VAR CARTVELI!  ( I AM GEORGIAN!)
It was so funny, and so out of the blue. How would the first person I spoke to in Greece be a Georgian?

We had a great conversations -  thanks Peace Corps intensive language classes.  She had moved to Greece to get work, as had many Georgians, as we discussed.  She was living there alone, missing her family.  She was taking care of an older woman.  I explained that I was living in Koda, helping the IDPs from S. Ossetia.  It was so good to talk to her, and connect the dots between Greece and Georgia on a more personal level. And we talked about Georgian men vs. Greece men too.  ( Of course Georgian men are better, she said, amazed I would even ask such a question!)

Culturally it was so nice to see men and women together,enjoying each other, socializing over a drink and meal.  I still find the sexes so separated in Georgia. And Athens, being such a cosmopolitan city, there were great, inexpensive restaurants of all types.  I also bumped into a few women from Charlotte, NC.  Imagine their surprise tat I could place their hometown so easily, but you just can't forget that accent.

History

The history of Greece is as amazing as that of Georgia.  I saw 5000 BC statues of female gods from the Cycladic islands, harp and flute from 5000 years ago. Of course the Acropolis, but I won't bother you with words.  Here are my personal pictures. You can see all the famous stuff on google. :-)

I walked around the Acropolis a while with a Spanish couple.
They had classical music blaring, they said, to
get in the mood.  :-)  Neat couple. 
 I asked several people about this big hill, prominent in Athens. But it's not in the tour books I guess so no one seems to notice it.  Finally I ascertained that is was from this hill that the Acropolis was fired upon, during one of the sieges.  Not too popular now; it is a evening disco.

Quick sidebar: In our local youth leadership class we shared the TED Talk  by Amy Cuddy, about feeling more confident by holding this posture for a short time. I thought the Acropolis was a good place to try it.  It is a great experiment; check it out. 


They start the Greek archaeology students early here

They were mesmerized!


Acropolis Museum restaurant was as lovely as they say
I also enjoyed the ancient ruins one just trips over, wandering through town.

Galaxidi and Delphi

These ripe oranges are sour if you pick them from the road, and sweet
if you pick them from someone's yard.  I tested it - TRUE.

Galaxidi - Fabulous

Galaxidi from downtown with Mt. Parnassus

Galaxidi with Mt. Parnassus 

The locals figured these had to be Russians students swimming
when it was still cool on the beach.  

Delphi - wow, how could I not know
all this great history! Glad I have no TV
and thus time to read and research more. 

Saturday, July 4, 2015

US Independence Day celebration in Koda

Just a quick post to wish you all a happy 4th!   Koda celebrated our 4th of July a little early.  But we did it!  I made hot dogs, baked beans, German/American potato salad, and Hungarian cucumber salad - for 50 people, in my little kitchen with my little oven and camp stove :-)  But it turned out well and I had some good help and even a little donation for some of the food! I had to do several shifts for the beans.

I knew that everyone would be skeptical of 'sweet beans', and they were.  But it is fun sharing our culture, our food, our songs.  And of course we sang a lot of Georgian songs too.  Fun day. 

Happy 4th to all back home.  Love and miss you all! Miss the cool evening, the fireworks, family, friends, entertainment, music...  I guess I never really thought about what a nice holiday it really is. Next year I will appreciate it more.





Friday, June 26, 2015

A day in the life of a Georgia Peace Corps IOD volunteer

Many of you have asked me what my normal day is like at the Koda Community Education Center,  so I am happy to comply. Everyday is different of course, but here is a summary of how we work and what my day is like.

Our office opens at 10am.  I know, what a luxury it is.  I remember it was just last year that I and those of us in Mountain Time Zone started work at 6am each day at IBM.  It is so nice not to set an alarm and rush off to work.  I cook, clean, wash, go get some water from the middle well, get caught up on personal and business email, try to do some yoga or Pilates, then at 10am walk 100 yards to the office.  I'm usually tired by the time I get to start my work day!  Today I was invited for coffee downstairs before work.  Our building has 3 entrance staircases, 5 stories, and 3 units on each landing, so I have 15 'close neighbors'  more than half have invited me in for coffee or dinner. I keep saying how great everyone, is, but it is worth repeating.


A little background on Koda CEC:

 CEC's mission is to provide ongoing educational opportunities, which include the development of competencies and skills, to aid in personal and career goals; encouraging a lifelong quest for knowledge.
The center facilitates the integration of internally displaced persons in local communities. Every year up to 2000 persons benefit from participation in a wide range of vocational and personal development programs which increase their employability and improve quality of life.


 Youth development programs, Adults non-formal education and Civic engagement are a priority of the KODA CEC team.  KODA CEC management team has experience in development, project planning and implementation on both a local and international level. The CEC was opened and continues to be supported in part by DVV International, the Institute for International Cooperation of the German Adult Education Association. As a leading professional organisation in youth and adult non-formal education, the Institute has supported lifelong learning in developing and transitioning countries for more than 45 years now.  

The CEC also facilitates an Elder Council, which is composed of 10 elected members, one from each of the 10 IDP buildings, who gather to discuss and take action on issues that affect the IDP settlement.  It has been successful in getting apartment water issues addressed with a more frequent availability of water to 4 times/day.  They are addressing a gas billing issue now.

Some days we just work on projects - computer work - and today was no exception.  We are submitting a grant proposal for 2 irrigation wells in the settlement from a federation of women Councils, called ACWW.  This is just one of thousands of big and small great organizations are out there that support what a wide range of issues and needs around the world. This organization, headquartered in UK supports many small organizations, like the "Organization to Support Women of the Village" here in Georgia.  And here are our office manager, Nunu, a great, hard worker and always has a smile on her face,  and one of our greatest volunteers and good friend, Ilia.

Here is our director, Madona, in a meeting with residents, discussing some gender issues in Georgia,  Madona was a business owner and also an elected official back in S. Ossetia, is well respected in the settlement and with the local governments.  South Ossetia is where the war happened in 2008 and they were expelled.  Our current projects include education for retraining for new livelihoods since they were mostly farmers in their old villages, and lifelong learning, business consulting / proposals that Madona supports,  the Elder Council, a Youth leadership Club, English clubs and classes and our social enterprise, Art-Koda. (art-koda.com)


Culinary class - sharing traditions 
Children's development class


Computer classes twice/week, with Jemo, another great volunteer, 



Art-Koda women
The women and men of Art-Koda  are making traditional Georgian handicrafts and also teaching these techniques with others in the settlement.  Our new web catalog is www.artkoda.com.  Due to shipping difficulties and lack of automation we only ship in Georgia now, and have to make other arrangements for other countries.  USA and Germany have also purchased our product!  Thanks for your support!



This woman taught teaching techniques to local teachers.  She was fabulous, funded by the US Embassy, and .... a former Peace Corps volunteer in China.... very cool  lady.  And the women loved her. They wouldn't even stop for a coffee break!





Our Youth Club had a cleanup in the settlement.  And I love this kid. He is in 10th grade, and wants to study science.  This is rare, from my experience.  Everyone here wants to be a lawyer or do international relations.  San Diego State University is opening a satellite here in Tbilisi and I want to make sure he is looking at it.  He rides about 40 minutes each weekend with his sister to come to Koda to be exposed to more opportunity.  Good for him... good for his parents!


Photography club
Our office has no lunch - the snack is to have coffee and cake/sweets almost every day about 2pm.  I try to be good. Sometimes I come home for lunch, and sometimes pack a cheese and tomato sandwich.   People not at work eat about 2pm,  and sometimes when I am not working, I get invited to nice dinners - lobio (black beans, sort of like mexican, with spices, like a soup) great bread, always tomatoes and cucumbers with spices, green beans with herbs,  lots of other good things. I do have to work on getting protein... daily...


Feldenkrais Method exercises
The office closes at 6, or later if we are working on something  Tonight some were printing on cups and t-shirts in Art-Koda so they worked very late.

In the evening, sometimes I go check on my tomato plants. A kind neighbor gave me a little piece of her garden for my 7 plants and basil. Much of their basil is purple here, so my green plants are somewhat unique and a fun present to take to people who invite me to coffee.

Many families have supper at around 8 or 9 pm - too late for me.  I come home, have a light dinner, salad, and some protein if I can find it. This day I got a knock on my door about 9pm.  A few girls about 12 years old had an invitation in English for me - all written up, about a little performance they are putting on in the field next door on Thursday at 4pm.  Of course I will attend.

Evenings are a luxury for me.  I have time to do research on the Internet, read, sometimes watch a show or movie through the internet, discover new music, and finally, I can FaceTime with family and friends.  This is so special and I just was able to get wifi set up.

I sleep early for Georgians - I DON'T LOOK AT THE CLOCK, I just turn off the light when I'm tired.  I know this sounds so simple, but in the States I NEVER did this. And I NEVER set an alarm for the morning. I just get up when I wake up - What a concept!  With the patent laws in the US so flexible now, maybe I can patent this :-).  ( sorry all my patent friends)

Zila Nebisa!  Good night.  Thank you all for your notes and comments.  I love to hear from you. I know I am learning a lot and hopefully helping a little.  But I still sure miss my life back home: friends and family.  God bless!

Here I am trying to learn the Georgian dances with the folk group!





Friday, June 5, 2015

The Little Ones in Georgia

International Children's Day is coming up and we at the Koda Community Education Center are planning a festival of games, music, and performances. While planning we visited the local kindergarten to invite their participation, I was struck by how clean and orderly it was, and quiet!   It is nice to compare the school systems in other countries. 
Kindergarten goes from 9:30-5:30. They are free throughout Georgia, and funded by the government. They have a two hour nap time! We could have been in the US except for the sadsoli otaki. (the bedroom)!  Now I could go for this! 



Both kindergartens attended the Children's Festival and many, many children from the settlement.   We had a few characters in costume ( about $100 - a LOT for here, but the kids really love it ), chalk drawings, games, singing performances from young and old. We even had a flash dance... a very successful day!



Friday, May 29, 2015

Dmanisi in the spring

As a part of my birthday weekend I was invited by friends to join them on a road trip to Dmanisi.  We brought along my good local friend Luso, who is trying to start a tour business in Kvemo Kartli and a friend visiting from Greece.  Dmanisi was fascinating but even more so was the ride down.  This is southern Georgia. All the bigger mountains are north. We have a desert to the south east and across the peaks are Armenia. Who would have thought how beautiful the mountains would be just south of me.


The Dmanisi Museum
We found the museum quite a ways from the archeological site.  But fortunately we went there first, so we knew what we could expect from the site.  The museum was closed even though we checked and it was scheduled to be open on Sunday.  Fortunately someone at the building knew someone that had a key, and if we would give him a ride to that person's house,  we could get into the museum.  Gotta love this country!  The museum director was in Canada, so we were toured by an enthusiastic volunteer who gave a wonderful description of the site and history.

The Dmanisi archeological site

This was fascinating. The reason it was such a big find in Dmanisi was that there were 5 skulls all buried together, but previously seen as separate species.   "Traditionally, researchers have used variation among Homo fossils to define different species. But in light of these new findings, Dr Lordkipanidze and his colleagues suggest that early, diverse Homo fossils, with their origins in Africa, actually represent variation among members of a single, evolving lineage – most appropriately, Homo erectus.
“Had the braincase and the face of Skull 5 been found as separate fossils at different sites in Africa, they might have been attributed to different species,” said Dr Christoph Zollikofer from the Anthropological Institute and Museum in Zurich, Switzerland, a co-author of the Science paper.


To read more.  about Dmainis archeological site

Also, I blogged previously about the18 million year old demonstration of love  which I found so interesting.


Here are some great Americans enjoying Georgia!  



Mike and Marcia's favorite picnic spot



After lunch we stumbled onto a beautiful poppy field. Then, on to Bolnisi.




Bolnisi. Sioni Cathedral is a Georgian Orthodox basilica in the Bolnisi village, Georgia. The cathedral was built in 478–493. It is the oldest church building in existence  in Georgia. Bolnisi Sioni Cathedral is known for its Georgian inscriptions. These are one of the oldest historical documents of the Georgian alphabet.


I don't know why these scenes still surprises me: a beautiful country - north, south, east and west.