You know you are back in Georgia when...

I just returned from France for Christmas back to Georgia . My first reminder I was back was in the airport luggage claim.  So many women in the their thirties and forties wearing all black.  I hate that - then looked down at my black jeans, black jacket and gloves, black turtleneck and black socks.  I quickly pulled out my bright green scarf and proudly displayed my tan cowboy boots, just to be a rebel. 

2. They still give out bottles of famous Georgian saperavi wine at passport control  :-)

3. You drive down the highway and see:

 - 20 inch fish from the local river strung across the open trunk of someone's car pulled over on the side of the highway

 - more sales tables - obviously recycled bottles - some have motor oil in them,  some sell wine in them

 - more Turkish fruit stands - oranges, pineapples (especially at holiday time) pomegranates, and persimmons, and the ever present wide selection of famous Georgian apples 

 -  a rack of ribs hanging from a small white cabinet next to the road with the words painted on a sign on the top ხორცი ( hortsi = meat). Refrigeration? 

4. You hop on the local marshutka and everyone says "hi kimi", and how was my son in საფრანგეთი (saprangeti = France). They all know I was away and invite me to their homes after I rest up.  That night in the Istanbul airport must have taken its toll.

5. Cows, sheep, and a recent addition of goats, now share the roads.

6. Gulf gas station signs all read გშლფი - or gulpi  -  since (remember) they have no F letter and all nouns have to end in a vowel.

7. SAFETY - All of France had a lot of rifle toting police patrolling the streets, as would be expected this year. And we have a lot of police in Tbilisi, but I don't even think most carry guns.  They are helpful and kind. Tbilisi is one of the 5 safest Capitols in the world, according to some article I read and can't remember where.  I believe it and missed it while away.

8. BAGS - went to the local grocery store in Tbilisi and walked out with 6 plastic bags, for 7 items.  In France you take your bags with you, or you walk out with everything in your hand.  (like Boulder, Colorado)

8. TRADEMARKS - Still no respect.  Bad picture, but this says Mc shawarma  - the turkish kabob.  Honest.  

Good to be 'home.'   Villages are full of fire works and crackers now.  I will work a few more days this year, help set up a more professional profit statement in excel for our social enterprise which successfully shared an almost living wage to 8-10 women in the settlement ( final numbers pending), then off to my training host family in Khashuri for the new year. New year is like Christmas in the US.  It is THE PARTY.  Can't wait.  

Hiking in the Kasbegi Mountains, and more cultural exchanges

An incredible but quick weekend trip to Kasbegi was just what I needed: a little getaway, a new place, and finally, some hiking in the mountains.  Kazbegi is at 1700m  or 5577 ft (yep that is lower elevation than Denver, but high for here)  - and the mountain of Kazbegi  is 5033m or 16512 ft. It is the third highest mountain in Georgia (and the seventh highest peak in the beautiful Caucasus Mountains).  Yep we have big and beautiful mountains here.

According to the Greek myth, Prometheus stole fire from the gods and gave it to humans. He was punished by being chained to this mountain (one of the two references to this region in Greek mythology).  He subsequently was attacked by a horrible dragon and the dragon eventually was turned into this rock. 

Yes, I did take these sunrise pictures - 5:30 am

Hiking to the Gergeti Trinity Church and Monastery 

  

The Gergeti Trinity Church was built in the 14th century and consists of a church and monastery. The separate belltower dates from the same period as the church itself. Its isolated location on top of a steep mountain surrounded by nature has made it a symbol for Georgia and its travel brochures.  The 18th century Georgian author Vakhushti Batonishvili wrote that in times of danger, precious relics from Mtskheta, including Saint Nino's Cross were brought here for safekeeping. During the Soviet era, all religious services were prohibited, but the church remained a popular tourist destination. The church is now an active establishment of the Georgian Orthodox Church.  I was hiking early and actually attended the monk's service early in the morning. (after I draped myself in a 'skirt scarf'and head scarf from the 'loaner box' near the church's entrance and enduring just a few stares from the young monks).  I enjoy the cadence of the prayers and calm recitations - like saying the rosary - but more active since there are no seats, and one still has to touch and then kiss the floor a few times. 

finding my way up the mtn

There are a few ways to get to the monastery but none of them are marked!  Really!  you have to guess, or get a hiking/tourist book.  I asked and gave directions several times during the hike.   How funny, considering it is probably the biggest mountain tourist attraction in the country in the summer.

I love this shot of the opposite mountain range in the valley.

And just like in Colorado, the clouds start accumulating in the afternoon, as I was leaving.

A little excitement on the trip to Kasbegi 

So here's the rest of the story.  We had lovely views driving up - 2 hours from Tbilisi.  We drove through this lovely valley, past the Zhinvali Reservoir, and then started climbing to the 5000 feet elevation to kasbegi.

 

As we began the switchbacks the marsh driver slowed to a stop and pulled over to the side of the road.  After opening the hood and contemplating the engine for a little while, another driver happened by and stopped to discuss the situation. I was sitting in the seat right behind the driver, so could see what was happening, to my dismay.  The accelerator coil had broken, so the accelerator wouldn't work.

And what happened next was amazing... As they say on Internet enticements.  The good Samaritan fellow went back to his car, pulled out a rope, tied it in the engine and then took the other end and hung it inside the drivers window.  And off we went!  The driver accelerated with his left hand, with a hand held accelerator and drove  AND  shifted with his right hand, up the switchbacks.  We did pretty well until the phone rang!  Thankfully he let go of the accelerator (not the steering wheel) and we coasted along until he hung up. :-).  It was quite an introduction to the kasbegi mountain.

Here is our driver manipulating his handheld accelerator up the mountain

Anano's Guesthouse - an interesting melting pot. 

I didn't have a reservation for the guesthouse and no one answered the phone number I had, so when I saw a school boy and asked for directions I was escorted directly to a lovely little home. After knocking on the door unannounced the man answered and said his wife was in Tbilisi on vacation, he had no food to serve, and he was full.  But being good at customer service, he offered me his room for the night, and he slept elsewhere.  It was a lovely room, with a great view of the mountain.  I captured this top picture as I rolled over at 5:30 am and caught the sunrise.  It really was magnificent and understandable that this room was chosen as the owner's room. 

The main room had a huge table - an inviting place for gathering all the guests - which tonight included 2 journalists from Siberia, a Ph.D. student from Zurich, two folks from Poland, and two from the Ukraine.  Our host pulled out his custom-ordered wine, a kakheti white with just a little saperavi (red) to make a nice pink color.  How interesting to mix one's wine for the color!  And didn't taste too bad either. 

As we discussed the day's hiking and bird watching some had come to do, I commented that it was really nice to have a Franco lingua of Russian so they all could communicate.  Well that went over like a lead balloon!  One fellow said that 50 years of the Soviet Union does that to people. But he didn't say it with a smile.  I then commented about the common supply chain during the Soviet Union times.  I recalled and shared a story of a fellow volunteer, a young woman from the Czech Republic who was part of GLEN volunteers and helped our Koda CEC for a few months.  She  joined me on a trip to a friend's house in a remote village near Koda one afternoon and she was shocked to see the kitchen cabinets were exactly like the ones her grama had in former Czechoslovakia.  How amazing that one place in all of Soviet Union was responsible for making kitchen cabinets for the entire Union - from Siberia, to Georgia, to Czechoslovakia!  The Siberian commented that the chacha decanter our host in Kasbegi had shared with us was exactly what her mother had.  To which the Lithuanian chimed in that his grandfather had the same set ,  with 12 small matching glasses.  

I couldn't tell how that felt about it all - comfort, resentment?  In the US it is endearing to see vintage common items: old Hoosier hutches, fiesta ware.  But maybe it is different here. We had a choice of buying these items and they were special to us.  In the USSR, there was only one choice.  So maybe they felt nostalgia now, but it was not so special.  I'm not sure.  I was going to bring up a few positive things I have learned about the USSR, like their decent and affordable health care I have heard about,  or the constitutional right to a paid vacation! But it probably wasn't a good time to discuss old politics, after the cha cha that is.  So I retired and left them to their Russian discussion.  :-) 

 All in all, it was a peaceful quiet time, and I look forward to discovering more of Georgian mountains, people and visitors.

... 

American Days in Georgia

The US Embassy in Georgia kicked off a week long celebration of American friendship and PR in June.  Smart, since July is hotter than heck.  The Koda Community Education Center Youth Club wanted to attend, so I accompanied Anano, our Youth Club Director, in taking the high schoolers to Tbilisi to see the booths, any free food, and an American concert.  They highlighted the projects that USAID was supporting, the US Embassy, and many joint projects with the Georgian government.

My picture of the little girl - top middle, taking corn off the cobs for winter feed

The Embassy had a photo exhibit on the outside of their tent. My picture was chosen - too bad I assigned away all rights. :-)  Here's the story of my little girl cleaning the corn off the cobs. 

Anano with our US Ambassador

Our Youth group

Tika Trevishvili, my Peace Corps Organizational Development program manager, at the Peace Corps booth, a great woman!

Look who is hanging out with Nate Stanford, base guitarist for dangerflow, who held a concert in the evening. My first rock concert of the 21st century, I think...

On my way to... the Republic of Georgia

Dear friends,  I am sitting in the Munchen airport for a 9 hour layover on my way to Republic of Georgia and think it is time to begin my blog since I now begin my journey.  I don’t know much about doing blogs but hope I can share my thoughts and experiences with all of you who have voiced interest.  First, let me thank you once more for your support and encouragement over the last nine months.  I really does “take a village” so get me here, so THANK YOU!  Many of you have asked similar questions, so I will do a little FAQ section on this first post.

THE BLOG: Now I hope to write only maybe once/week, so as not to bore you.  And my posts will be SHORT, with the exception of this first one, which will be LONG.  I turned off the comments section of the blog at this time, so it’s just one way info.  But please feel free to email me if you have questions or thoughts.  I fear I will have very limited Internet use, so please don’t expect timely responses.  If you do have an emergency, Amanda, Matt and Mom all have an emergency Peace Corps number for me.  

THE DISCLAIMER:  I ask forgiveness in advance for being pedantic, preachie,  or the other obnoxious things I know I can be guilty of (OK, also bad grammar).  I think I’m going to learn a lot, be humbled a lot, and be excited a lot.  That can manifest itself poorly in written language.  So please forgive me.  I also do realize that I have I am representing the USA as well as Peace Corps,  so will be a little limited in my ‘venting’ but you understand.

WHY PEACE CORPS:  In 2013 my new years resolution was to positively impact people’s lives by making active, mindful decisions about my future, not just roll along from year to year complaining or being bored.  I also want to model behavior of which my children could be proud, and I didn’t feel I was doing that successfully.  I looked at several mission groups but felt that with 2 children still in college and an elderly mother, I felt it most responsible to go with an organization that could ‘get me out of harm’s way’ quickly. And Peace Corps has the resources to do that.  NO,  I didn’t have a lifelong yearning to join the Peace Corps, but I became more and more impressed the more I learned about it.

Peace Corps Goals:

1. To help the people of interested countries in meeting their need for trained men and women.

2. To help promote a better understanding of Americans on the part of the peoples served.

3. To help promote a better understanding of other peoples on the part of Americans

THE PROCESS:  9 months of application, interview, physicals, dental, financial, background check, recommendations, and aspiration statements, planning and organizing.  I found out that only about ½ of applications become volunteers.  One can choose one's ‘segment’ but not location.  I signed up for economic/business development and will be doing organizational development work with NGOs (non government organizations), which I like and did when I was with the IBM Global Services Internet Consulting group.  

CURRENT STATUS:  OK, so here is where it gets CRAZY!  I was assigned and accepted a position with Azerbaijan, on the Caspian Sea. About 40 of us that were going over as a group for 3 month of language/culture/safety/health training   2 days before shipping out AZ decided they didn’t want us and we were told not to get on the plane!  WOW,  so here I was in Denver getting a ride to the airport, with condo rented, car committed to Matt, no job, no health insurance(!).  So this is the first test in being flexible… for me and for the kind friends and family that offered me ports in the storm. THANKS John and Marge, Mom and Meg, Gari, Lucy, Reggie, Matt, and many more…

After diligent work by the PC office I looked at Philippines, Panama, and Micronesia, which didn’t work out.  They finally found a spot for me in the Republic of Georgia, leaving  April 26th.  So enjoyed another set of goodbye sessions with many of you great people, had Easter in the US with family, had a few wonderful birthday celebrations, hiked and sailed in Colorado, and got some more pilates sessions in.  They flew me to DC Saturday, and we had a full day of meetings Sunday, after which we caught busses to Dulles for our journey.  So we’re on our way!

FIRST PLEASANT SURPRISE:  I was so focused on my job assignment,  I did not think of my 53 fellow volunteer invitees. (We are not volunteers until after 3 months when we can speak the language and are sworn in).  This group is FABULOUS!  There are young and old, about 50/50 men and women, but all of them have some great story to share about what they have been doing, their plans and goals. 2/3 will teach English and 1/3 will be in Organizational Development with me.  But after our 3 month’s training we all split up and are alone in our communities.  They have Ph.Ds, many in International masters programs, non profit directors, many taking some time off between or before careers.  They are all genuine, interested and committed.  Isn’t thatan exciting atmosphere to be around?  Many were refused the first time, and many took 1-2 years to get an assignment, so I feel honored to be easily accepted.

Lot of good info to follow but for now you can check out 
http://www.gotravelyourway.com/2013/11/12/8-reasons-to-travel-to-georgia-and-tbilisi/  to find out some great things about Georgia.  It is a beautiful mountainous country, a good business climate, and equally important famously generous people, great food and wine.  My seatmate to Munchen is from Georgia so I learned a few key phrases already. I’m on my way!

I promise the next post will be in country - shorter and full of poignant revelations… if I can find electricity and Internet access!   Thx,  Kim