Davit-Gareja...nature and entrepreneurship in the Georgian desert

Georgian desert in the spring

Davit-Gareja is a desert region in the SE corner of Georgia, on a mountain ridge that becomes a natural border with Azerbaijani. I had an special opportunity to ride out there with friends and a Polish couple touring the area. The ride through the springtime desert was lovely, full of poppies and other wild flowers, sheep and cattle and a variety of eagles. 

Interesting to note that this is a very early example of environmental damage.  The area was forested during the Bronze age but iron smelting eventually led to deforestation in the 1st millennium BC, resulting in climate change and desertification.  

 1500 year old monastery

  Syrian St. David established a community of monks in the 6th century and built a monastery in caves cut out of sandstone rocks. The naturally worn steps in the rocks reminds us of its age.  The Udabno monastery was about a 2 hour hike up the sandstone cliffs and is located at the edge of the natural border of Georgia and Azerbaijan. It is important for its frescoes from 9th up to 14th centuries. The area and frescoes were pretty well preserved, considering that the Soviets used this area for artillery practice during their occupation, due to the similarities between this desert area and Afghanistan.  The Azeri guards were friendly and spoke English and told us we were on the "buffer zone" but could hike up to see the chapel and frescoes.  Then further down, the Georgian guards were stationed and told us this is Georgian land. 

There were a a handful of tourists; surprising for such a remote place.  A fellow from Holland showed me a snake eagle - a first for me.  And their guide pointed out some interesting details of the frescoes, such as the fact that heaven is always drawn on the east side of the cave, hell on the west side. (Philosophical analysis welcome).

Also, I found it interesting to learn that these caves were made, not only found.  They used a small opening in the sandstone, and expanded it by heating the rock with fire, then pouring water on it to split it. 

Entrepreneurship in Georgia

 Here is a coffee cart in the parking lot.  

 It's good to see entrepreneurship alive and well in Georgia, but in this case it was all imported.  First, at the monastery we were happily surprised to see a coffee bar parked near the entrance.  In speaking with the Georgian manager, we were told it was really owned by a couple Ukranians, but he was running it for a while.  It was a treat to have it in this really remote area of the country.  


Next,  our Polish guests told us of the Oasis Cafe,  a little restaurant in the middle of NOWHERE, run by 2 Poles.  They had been there for about 3 years and had a lovely place, catering just for tourists. And in the middle of the desert, it really was an oasis.  The cold drinks, food, and clean western bathrooms were just was we needed after that hike.  Good for them!

And here are our new Polish friends, standing in front of the only public place in the area.